soupy says

I experienced my first earthquake last night. I thought it was a dream.

Happy Thanksgiving!

I'm in Taiwan!

Woo.

When I decided I was coming to Korea, I knew I wanted to go to the DMZ. Me being me, I called yesterday to make reservations with the USO to go on their tour today. Luckily I am not traveling during the peak tourist season, or I would have had to tour with a different company.

What a surreal experience. First of all, the whole idea of the USO running tours to the DMZ is a pretty weird idea. Think about it. I mean, the gift shop at the Joint Security Area (JSA) is the perfect example. For $15 you can own a piece of barbed wire that used to line the DMZ. Shirts, shot glasses all your typical tourist crap with DMZ stamped on it. Anyway, I'm getting ahead of myself.

The tour starts at the USO office at 7am. Yes, you need to be there at 7am. Two busses load up and drive to Camp Boniface. On the way, our passports got checked a couple of times (South Koreans can't go on the USO tour, but any other nationality can). At Boniface, we get to sign a waiver that we realize that we could die. Our tour guide (a US Army guy), sums up the Korean War and the state of the DMZ since then in a less than five minute presentation. After a stop at the gift shop, we head to Panmaunjeom. Panmanunjeom is the place where peace talks take place, and the only place you could go in between two countries by stepping over a concrete sidewalk. (However, I would not advise this.) We got taken inside the conference room where talks take place, and by going on the other side of a conference table, you stepped into "Communist Korea." A Republic of Korea guard stood in front of a door that would open on the North Korean side. When we exited the building, a VIP bus holding an ambassador pulled up in front of the conference room. He was getting a tour too. We watched as three North Korean guards came out and peered into the conference room from the outside (not crossing that concrete line, of course) like window shoppers. Our Army tour guide said, "they do that a lot."

There were a couple of more stops (and a couple more gift shops) that let you "see" into North Korea. Then there was a stop at the 3rd infiltration tunnel.

I walked away from the whole experience not really knowing how to process it all. The whole DMZ area seems to be set up by two kids playing war. At Panmanunjeom, on the North side had the building Panmungak. Well, a building bigger than Panmungak was built on the South's side, so the North added a building. Inside the DMZ, the North has "Propaganda Village," an empty city of huge buildings (that occasionally broadcasts recorded speeches). Well, the South has "Freedom Village." Koreans that live their have to be either defectors of the North or descendents of defectors. (Women can marry into the village. Men can't.) It has mostly rice farmers (you can buy bags of DMZ rice), and they live better than most Koreans. The residents get 17 acres and most Koreans get 3. There is a catch. Residents have to live there 244 nights a year, and there is a curfew. Another feature of the propaganda villages is the giant ass flags. North Koreans has a big one, but then the south put up a bigger one. So, the Koreans put up an even bigger one. Of course, the whole peering in the windows thing was like the icing on the cake.

A weird way to end my time here. The South Koreans view the division of their people as a real tragedy. When I went to the War Memorial, the start of the Korean war was called "6.25" but viewing the DMZ the way you do on a tour, the whole mess seems dumb.

I'm at the hostel watching the Armed Forces Network on TV thinking of research projects.

I want to live in a city with a subway system.

I was feeling pretty tired last night so I didn't do too much in Suwon. I wandered around for a motel and ended up in the red light district. I turned around and found another grouping of motels. When I checked in I held up a finger to indicate one person, and he put his hands together and said, "For sleeping?" "Yes." Wow. This place was a piece of shit. I didn't even get a room key. There was a posted rate of 25,000W, but that wasn't for the entire night. However, this place did have BBC Worldnews on the teevee, and the Armed Forces Network. That mainly showed bad American TV, but the public service announcements (aimed at the troops of course) where cra-zy.
The next morning, I got bored and took the subway to Pyongtaek. I wasn't in any hurry at that point. After the second stop, the entire train emptyed, and there was some announcement in Korean. I hauled ass out of there, and the train sped away. Um, ok. Then another train going in the same direction pulled up, and everyone got on. Oh, ok.

I ended up catching D as he was getting off the bus, and we wandered around to find some place to eat. Most restaurants are closed on Sundays (I guess), and after many tries, we finally found a place and had dumpling soup. We got some coffee and walked around until 2. D was fighting the beginnings of an illness, and of course he was dead tired. We said goodbye.

I got on a train to Seoul, and when I left the train station, there was a massive protest going on in the street. This army guy next to me (I heard him talking about PT at Pyongtaek) asked if I knew what was going on. He was trying to catch a cab to get to base, but the streets were blocked due to the protest.

"Is the base near the War Memorial?"
"Yeah."
"Oh, you can just take the subway."
"Oh, I don't know how."
"I can take you."

So I did. He has been in Korea since April at some base north of Seoul. He has been in the country SINCE APRIL, and didn't had only ridden the subway once. Now, D's work schedule sucks, but he gets up to Seoul whenever possible. This guy was shocked that I had been here since the 9th, and I knew my way around so well.

It has been interesting couple of days, that's for sure. I can't believe I only have two full days left here. Katy has my first few days in Taiwan booked, and I can't wait.

So, no D tonight.

Instead of getting off of work at 1, he got put on call (can't leave the base). He know has to work tonight from 8pm - 4pm. I am getting on a train at 11:30am to Pyongtaek to see him. It won't be too long of a visit because he has to be at PT at 4am.

Hell, at this point, I'll be happy just to be able to give him a hug. And if that doesn't happen, at least I'll get to see the protest that is going on outside of the train station.

I'm posting from the Suwon train station because I want to get my 500W worth on the Internet. I'm meeting D here at 3, but until then I'm going to explore this fortress thingy here in the city.

The past few days in Seoul have been fantastic. I've been hanging out with the Canadian, Rick, and a Japanese woman (living in New Zealand), Saya. We have done lots of site seeing and lots of eating. On the subway last night, I saw a guy with a Lonely Planet staring at the subway map. I asked him if he needed help, and then we ended up arranging to go out for drinks later. While we waited for him to show, we met some more new guests at the hostel, an American and a Malaysian (living in Dallas). Beer was consumed, the other American and I started going off on politics (what else do I talk about when tipsy?). Anyway, another fantastic evening. Rick went to Busan, but I will see him Tuesday night. He and I are on the same flight to Taiwan on Wednesday. I will see Saya one more night before she leaves Monday morning.

Fortress time!

I had a great first day back in Seoul. Yesterday morning, a Canadian at the hostel asked me what was good to see in Seoul. About 15 minutes later, he and I were out the door heading toward the big temple near city hall. After lunch we went to Yongsan Electronics District because I needed headphones. After a coffee break, we went to the Seoul National Museum. It just opened the last week in October, and I was amazing. I am very rarely in awe of architecture (even more so modern architecture), but these place was amazing. It was, for lack of a better word, huge with marble everywhere. Simply gorgeous. Oh, and there was some pretty amazing stuff inside too. After tourtisting ourselves out, we went for some beer. Then ate. Then drank some more.

Tonight is Vickie's birthday!

Last night, I decided to come back to Seoul. Vickie doesn't have class on Wednesdays so I thought it would be fun to sight-see with her. However, she couldn't meet up last night because she had plans. I spent the night at Seoul Backpackers. I had heard two rave reviews from fellow guests at the Hanjin Hostel, and I wanted to go someplace to be social. I sat and watched and laughed at Armageddon and Species with a Scotsman (the same one from the hostel in Busan), Spaniard, and a German. Fun times.

Today, Seoul!

I wanted to go to Jeju island. This morning, I got up and went to the ferry terminal. "Tickets for Jeju on sale at 2."

I wandered around. I didn't do too much. I took the subway to the Busan Art Museum. I tried to buy a ticket, but "free today." Well, in most of the rooms there were rags laying about and people cleaning pictures. Hm. I checked my guide book, and it said the muesum is closed on Mondays. Ok, I guess that is why it is free.

I went back to the ferry terminal. I waited at the desk to buy Jeju tickets, but no one showed. I went and called Dylan, but after about 10-15min his voice turned into a busy signal. I tried calling back, but I kept getting a recorded Koren voice.

I noticed that there was someone at the desk for Jeju tickets. I went back and waited behind this elderly couple. I asked to get a ticket. "All full." What? Well, shit. The Jeju ferry only goes once a day, and I have no hope of finding a place in Busan because of APEC. Also, I was ready to leave.

I went to Busan station, and I looked at different cities between Busan and Seoul. I volunteer APEC Interperter came up to me and asked where I was going.

"I don't know yet."
"How spontaneous."

I asked where Dondaegu was because I could not find it in my guidebook. He told me that it was in Daegu. It means east of Daegu. Oh. I then found the station on the map of Daegu. In my guidebook I had marked Daegu as a possible place of interest. 6,400W later, I had a ticket to Daegu. Michelle, the interperter, asked me if I wanted some tea before I left. Sure. I got to go into the worker's lounge and drink green tea. Michelle's dad was in the army so he lived all over Korea. His family then moved to Brazil for 20, and then he moved back to Korea in 1988. Crazy! Well, Michelle almost made me miss my train because the clock on his phone was slow. He took me all the way to my seat on the train.

An hour and a half later, I was at Dondaegu. I got off the train and walked toward activity and went into the second motel I saw. 20,000W later, I had a room. I decided to take the subway to downtown. Downtown is hopping for 8pm a Monday night. All the clothing stores are open and vendors line the streets.

I still haven't decided if I am going to stay in Daegu one or two days, and if I do decide on only one day, I do not know if I am going back to Seoul or another stop along the way.

How spontaneous.

Wow. Busan, you are an amazing city.

Today, I went to this park, and I was on the way to the Marine Museum. However, I heard this drum noises, so I followed their sound. The sounds lead me to some type of folk dance performance in the park. I sit down, take some pictures, and clap when it is done. A young woman approaches me and asks if I liked it. The usual introductions of where I'm visiting, how long I am staying are exchanged. I ask, "Is there anything in Busan you recommend I see?" The woman, July says, "We have great beaches. I teach a folk dance class this afternoon. I can take you." Ok. Then, her friend, Maya, comes up, and July asks if I have eaten. Nope, sure haven't. We got out to eat. July goes to her class. Maya takes me to the Busan tower where there are some cultural events for APEC. There is a mask dance at 3. Cool. Well, at one point in the dance, the guy in the mask pulls this kid from the audience and tells him to bring up some foreingers. Me and this APEC delegate from the US get pulled up on stage. We are asked to dance. So we dance. Then I got a necklace with a mask on it. Part way through the next event, an Incan band, Maya gets a call from July. We meet her and do some walking on the beach. We eat dinner. I get reconginzed from the mask dance by some other whiteys. Then we see the Busan bridge lights at nine. I'm tired. I'm going to Jeju tomorrow.

Dammit.

I am tired of wandering around trying to find the damn hostel. I've done this in Gyeongju and in Busan.

Anyway, I got here. It's late. I am tired. I don't think I'm doing anything tonight. I am going to check out the 1,000W store near the hostel/apartment tomorrow. I was going to stay in Busan three nights, but this place is full on Monday. So, I will move on to a different city. Why not?

A drunk man on the Busan subway offered me a piece of gum.

It rained all day today. Boo. I did hang out with two women: a Norweigan and a Japanese. I think I'm going to Busan tomorrow.

Exciting entry, huh?

Edit: Here is a photo of me and Vickie's Korean teacher. (After the teacher did Soju Bombs).

No pictures...I'm on the motel's computer.

Today, I left Seoul and headed to Gyeongju. I'm staying the night at the Hanjin Jang Hostel. Mr. Kwon got me set up in a room, maps, recommendations on sight seeing, and a resaurant recommendation. I wandered around the city a little. There are many street markets (mostly food), and the city is littered with anicent tombs. The tombs are big mounds, like random hills, everyone. At night the ones by the park and the trees are lit up by flood lights. When I got back, Mr. Kwon asked me if I had eaten, I replied no, and he said, "He is going to eat. You can go together." "He" turned out to be a PHD student from Singapore that is here for a conference. Mr. Kwon called the restuarant to tell them we were coming. After coming back, I got to chat with Mr. Kwon and two women, one from Japan and the other from Norway. Tomorrow, I will do some real sight seeing.

Fuck.

Voters tied the knot Tuesday with a constitutional amendment cementing marriage in Texas as being solely between a man and a woman and barring communities from legalizing same-sex unions.

And to think I had hope. There were "Keep Families First" and "Defend, Don't Amend the Texas Constitution signs in SA."

And yes, I'm in Korea eating a green tea ice cream popsiclle blogging about this, but I knew it was being voted on, and I had to check.

Pictures from Narita International Airport.

I'm currently in my friend Vickie's apartment near Yonsei University in Seoul, South, Korea!. My plane left Denver at 8:34 am on Nov. 7th. I got to Seoul at 8:30pm on Nov 8th. In between, I had layovers in San Francisco, CA and Tokyo, Japan. Vickie picked me up from the airport has given me a tutorial on Korean words, culture etc. She is an excellent guide. She sure has made things easier.

I'm trying to come up with some profound first impressions of Seoul, but I think I'm experiencing overload from the last 24 hours. It seems like an hour ago I was sitting in DIA.

Oh, I can think of something...while Vickie and I sat waiting for the bus at the airport. A man from the bus ticket counter with a Dixie-type cup half full and handed it to Vickie, "Coppee." He asked if I wanted some and went and got some more from the counter. It was good. It almost tasted like a gas station cappuccino.

Edit: Ok, I thought of something else. In the airport bathrooms, in the toilet stall, there was this button attached to a speaker. Curious, I pressed it. It played a recorded noise of a toilet flushing. It took me a minute, but I figured out that it was there so you could cover up "toilet noises." Vickie calls it an "etiquette bell."

I'm getting on a plane to Seoul, South Korea in less than five hours.

Heightened Risk of Demonstrations during APEC Summit

American citizens living in or traveling to the Republic of Korea should pay special attention to the high likelihood of protests and civil demonstrations in the Busan area during the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) Summit, November 12 - 19, 2005. Korean police advised the Embassy that they expect 30,000 to 50,000 protesters to gather in downtown Busan and in the vicinity of the Busan Exhibition and Convention Center. Demonstrations may also occur without notice in other parts of Korea, including Gyeongju and other cities hosting APEC-related events. We wish to remind American citizens that even demonstrations intended to be peaceful can turn confrontational and possibly escalate into violence. American citizens are, therefore, urged to avoid the areas of demonstrations if possible and exercise caution if within the vicinity of any demonstrations.

That's interesting because I was planning on visiting Gyeongju and Busan between the dates of Nov 11th - 17th.

Crap.

"American citizens should also be aware that hotel rooms will be practically unavailable in Busan and the surrounding area for the week of the summit and, in most cases, the two weeks preceding it.

I wonder if there will be rooms outside the city.

Edit: I emailed a hostel, and they have rooms still. Sweet.

Yay ultra-gendered children's toys teaching ultra-materialism!

"You want to feel like a princess every moment of every day," Ms. Beech said, "even if you're riding a bike or kicking a soccer ball." It is even possible, as one mother at the Disney store confessed, to go to the bathroom the Cinderella way. "There's Drizella and there's Anastasia," her recently toilet-trained daughter remarks when she flushes.

And to think, just this morning, I cursed out loud upon seeing "Bella Cinderella Magical Princess Dance Studio " advertised on TV.

An instructional DVD by prima ballerina Bella and her friends helps get your little sovereign’s dance steps up to snuff for the big event. Steps are easy to follow with the accompanying Cinderella dance mat, which has footprints to show maidens where to put their feet during each waltz or ballet. Bella teaches her young protégés 10 enchanting dances and 8 songs in all and even touches on how to behave like a princess.

It is DDR for 4 year olds (girls).

PS: I'm all better. My sickness must have been a 24 hour bug.

currently Josh Joplin Group, "Here I am"

Uh oh. I think I have a fever.

Thrus - Sat: see Matt Nathanson in Denver, Boulder, and Ft. Collins.
Monday: Leave for Korea.

Hopefully this bug won't stick around long.